Even though Michael Pollan is sometimes infuriatingly out of touch when he writes about the ethics of eating, I’m always excited when I see one of his lengthy food articles appear in the Times Magazine. They consistently feature juicy information and fresh ideas, and are never boring.
So I don’t know what the hell happened this time around, but his new piece is almost unreadable. Starting with Julia Child, it ruminates on the decline of American cooking skills, and the rise of food television as entertainment.
Five paragraphs in I was bored, and by the end of the piece I was pissed for having wasted my time reading this thing. I’m thinking that perhaps Pollan has said everything he has to say about food, and is now pigeonholed in a niche he’s lost interest in. I don’t know how else to explain this sudden drop off in quality, other than to say this could be the moment when Michael Pollan’s food writing has jumped the shark. Link.