Robert Sietsema’s vegan-bashing Village Voice article tries to settle the score with B.R. Myers for suggesting that many top foodies insincerely use food politics as a cover for personal gluttony.
Myers, of course, is sitting up very high on his horse. Well, he can’t actually sit on the horse, because that would be cruel, wouldn’t it? As the embattled vegan in a meat-eating world, he tars anyone who allows meat past lips. At various points, he grabs arguments from evolution, animal husbandry, human history, zoology, ancient philosophy, and contemporary gastronomy, proving himself well-educated, but many brain cells short of wise.
Given their comparative writing chops, Sietsema really ought to avoid talking about others’ brain cells.
As if to prove my point, he continues:
Ultimately, I think Myers’s real problem is dyspepsia. He really, really doesn’t enjoy eating. And resents those of us who do.
Yeah, that’s it: vegans just don’t enjoy eating. That’s what this is all about.
For a long time I used to wonder why alternative newsweeklies like the Village Voice are consistently on the right side of the issue when it comes to questions of race, gender, class, and the environment—while their food sections continually promote the cruelest possible dining options. And then I realized that it’s all about the money: the KKK and the Westboro Baptist Church don’t buy ads in alternative newsweeklies, while restaurants are these papers’ bread and butter.