B.R. Myers on “the Foodie Fringe”

A brilliant Atlantic piece calls out the bestselling foodie writers, revealing them for what they are: pretentious ethically challenged gluttons feigning a meaningful social agenda.

The deeper an outsider ventures into this stuff, the clearer a unique community comes into view. In values, sense of humor, even childhood experience, its members are as similar to each other as they are different from everyone else.

Good, good stuff. And so cathartic, given how much arrogant bullshit these writers spew upon the world.

But this piece does more than deliver a long-overdue comeuppance. Its conclusion needs to be taken to heart by every food advocate:

Unfortunately, the foodie fringe enjoys enough media access to make daily claims for its sophistication and virtue, for the suitability of its lifestyle as a model for the world. We should not let it get away with those claims.

I regard some writers I have deep disagreements with, like Mark Bittman and Jamie Oliver, as fellow travelers doing vitally important work. But the worst of the foodies, people like Anthony Bourdain and Kim Severson, are in no way playing on our team—they are as much our opponents as Tyson Foods. (Via Marla.) Link.